Category: Morse key circuit

We have searched the web to help you find quick design ideas. We make every effort to link to original material posted by the designer. Please let us if you would like us to link to or post your design. This can be accomplished with the help of Morse practice tapes or classes.

It is a low-power QRP type and needs to be connected to your existing tranceiver. The carrier This page was also one of the very first circuit descriptions that I put on the internet quite some years agon. Today I would not build a transceiver like I did then, but it was working, so I have kept this page for historical and sentimental reasons.

If you are a beginner in building you own transceivers you might be able to steal a few of my ideas.

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Please let me know if you do a full copy of the design, I would be interested in you practical experiences when operation on the air. A and IC2. B to both be high at the same time. The message data entered through the computer keyboard is converted to corresponding Morse code and transmitted via the An Arduino processor can also be used in place of this circuit, that eliminates the need to build the circuit and program an EPROM.

CW Tone Keyer - Recently, I received email from an amateur wishing to key his transmitter from the tone output of a Morse Code generator program. Although it is possible to connect to a COM port on the back of a PC using a diode-transistor configuration, this results in another precious COM port being used up. The tone keyer is an ideal alternative and works very well.

Easy FM Keyer - Many no code Technician class amateurs who are struggling to learn 5 WPM code simply do not have any avenue to get the necessary on the air practice. Easy Morse Code Keyer - For those amateurs who are planning to learn their code and upgrade, some type of on the air experience is virtually essential for the higher code speeds. This means a paddle is needed as well as some type of keying circuit to drive it. Most modern rigs are keyed by grounding the key line.

The maximum current on the keying line is usually no more than a few mA. Clearly something better is needed. Morse Beacon - The Morse beacon can be programmed with a short sentence or phrase, which is then retained in non-volatile memory and subsequently keyed out automatically in a repeating fashion as might be done to advertise a callsign, etc. Forrest Cook. Supply voltage for this circuit is up to 15 volts, but 12V is more desirable if you choose to go with an adapter.A telegraph key is a specialized electrical switch used by a trained operator to transmit text messages in telegraph systems, usually in Morse code.

Keys are used in all forms of electrical telegraph systems, such as landline or "wire" electrical telegraphyand "wireless", or radio telegraphy. An operator taps on the switch, connecting and disconnecting the electrical circuit, creating electrical pulses of two different lengths called "dots" and "dashes", to spell out text messages in code. Since its original inception, the telegraph key's design has developed such that there are now multiple types of keys.

MorseKOB Interface Techniques

A straight key is the common telegraph key as seen in various movies. It is a simple bar with a knob on top and a contact underneath. When the bar is depressed against spring tension, it forms a circuit and allows electricity to flow. Traditionally, American telegraph keys had flat topped knobs and narrow bars frequently curvedwhile British telegraph keys had ball shaped knobs and thick bars. This appears to be purely a matter of culture and training, but the users of each are tremendously partisan.

They are the subject of an avid community of key collectors. The straight keys used in wire telegraphy also had a shorting bar that closed the electrical circuit when the operator was not actively sending messages. This was to complete the electrical path to the next station so that its sounder would operate, as in the operator receiving a message from the next town. Although occasionally included in later keys for reasons of tradition, the shorting bar is unnecessary for radio telegraphy, except as a convenience when tuning the transmitter.

The straight key is simple and reliable, but the rapid pumping action needed to send a string of dots or dits as most operators call them poses some significant drawbacks.

In the early days of telegraphy, a number of professional telegraphers developed a repetitive stress injury known as glass arm or telegrapher's paralysis. Such problems can be avoided by using a good technique.

Telegraph key

In addition to the basic up-and-down telegraph key, telegraphers have been experimenting with alternate key designs from the beginning of telegraphy. Most move side-to-side instead of up-and-down. Some of the designs, such as sideswipers and semi-automatic keys operate mechanically. From the midth century electronic devices called " keyers " have been developed, operated by special keys of various designs generally categorized as single-paddle keys and " iambic " or double-paddle keys.

The first widely accepted alternative key was the sideswiper or sidewindersometimes called a cootie key or bushwhacker.

This key uses a side-to-side action with contacts in both directions and the arm spring-loaded to return to center. A series of dits could be sent by rocking the arm back and forth. Although the original sideswiper is now rarely seen or used, nearly all advanced keys use some form of side-to-side action. A popular side-to-side key is the semi-automatic key or bugsometimes known as a Vibroplex keyafter the company that first manufactured them.

The original bug s were fully mechanical, based on a kind of simple clockwork mechanism, and required no electronic keyer. When the paddle is pressed to the left it makes a continuous contact suitable for sending dashes or dahsas most operators call them. Like semi-automatic keys, the telegrapher operates an electronic keyer paddle by swinging the lever from side-to-side.

When pressed to one side, the keyer electronics generate a series of "dahs "; when pressed to the other side, a series of " dits. Like semi-automatic keys, pressing the paddle on one side produces a dit and the other a dah. Single paddle keys are also called single lever keys or sideswipersthe same name as the older side-to-side key design they greatly resemble.

Double paddle keys are also called " iambic " [a] keys or "squeeze" keys. Single paddle keys are essentially the same as sideswiper keys with separate contacts on the left and right.

morse key circuit

Double-paddle keys have two arms, one for each contact, both arms held away from the common center by a spring; pressing either of the paddles towards the center makes contact, the same as pressing a single-lever key to one side. For double-paddle keys, squeezing both paddles together makes a double-contact, which causes the keyer to send alternating dits and dahs.

With dit or dah memory, if the operator's keying action can be about one dit ahead of the actual transmission.Hi, colleague. Connect the pins as indicated by your help. Set the program as indicated, but no luck.

Windows 10? Hello Ramon, Please contact me direct on "morsepower shutter. It can be difficult to see the numbers, but remember they are in "Mirror Image" when you look at them apart A good idea to do a "continuity check" all the way to the pins to the key with a "multimeter" or similar line checker.

I made similar mistake when I first did connections - easy to make mistake. Hi Dave Keying with a mouse, shows pics of how to convert a mouse. Hi David Not as far as I know! When I click onto the globe icon to connect, it shows I am the only person on the site. When I click on the computer screen icon 4th from the leftit shows others on the system, some on the which I am supposedly on, but I am not listed. I can't seem to contact anyone but when I send morse code, the letters I am sending show up on my screen and my code is heard on my end clearly.

Does this program even work anymore? Hi Dennis, I have one because my paddle is connected through a keyer circuit weirdly, I use the rare "Ultimatic" mode so need a keyer. It gives me peace of mind. This section covers how to connect a key, and what settings to use to get it working on cwcom. Windows 10 users Keying with a mouse If You use your key on a HF transceiver, it will probably have a line jack plug on it If you use a Laptop as your main computer, You will need Setting up the computer Landline Sounder users The serial port provides output pins that can be connected to a Sounder early Morse receive device or used for an external flashing light.

Here is the interface Circuit you can use:. As drawn the 1N will not protect the 2N keying transistor from the positive voltage spikes which appear at the collector whenever the transistor is turned off. This situation is normally addressed by use of a "free-wheeling diode" as drawn on the attached amended schematic.

MorseMan 18 July at Unknown 10 December at MorseMan 10 December at Unknown 30 December at The circuit above which generates automatic dots and dashes was designed by W3FQB and it was unique as it utilized selenium rectifiers to isolate the dot and dash circuits thus eliminating a relay.

Some of the earlier circuits used 3 relays. I used several different types of relays - - - the relay at the upper right RY1 must have a set of normally closed contacts which open when voltage is applied. The keyer "paddle" provides a plus voltage into the two clips at the top to provide voltage for dots and dashes.

The keying relay at the bottom left only needs one set of contacts that close when voltage is applied to the coil.

morse key circuit

The other relay at the bottom right is an emergency spare. Note the use of PC board squares for soldering components. A modern bread board. Most of the early electronic keyer "Paddle Keys " were made from back to back surplus military keys. The clear plastic paddles replaced the knobs and were made from Plexiglas found in a trash barrel at a USAF scheduling office in The military throws away a lot of stuff.

Plexiglass was a big deal then. J's were often used for keyers and were a buck a piece down on Market Street in San Francisco. A sardine can was used as a mold for the lead base but remove the sardines first. Later my lead key bases were painted black to prevent lead ingestion and to provide stealth. Improvise - Adapt- Overcome. Photo by N9SE.

Russian Straight Key - CW Morse QRP Ops

Here is a simple key using a hacksaw blade as a base. Also known as a Cootie" key. This one made by N9SE. Note the blade "throw" adjustment made by using the placement of the nails.From Straight keys including the Camelback Morse key, to automatic Morse keyers such as the Vibroplex, their development has seen many new innovations, and enormous changes in style.

Even today many people enjoy sending Morse Code using these Morse keys. While some may say that they are simply a switch, this is most certainly not the case. Morse keys have been the subject of over patents in the USA alone, and they have undergone a considerable amount of development.

The way in which keys have developed since the very first ones used by Morse himself is a fascinating story. Some styles of key are quite familiar, whilst others have quite unusual attributes and as a result many people find collecting keys a fascinating pastime. The first Morse keys arrived at the very beginning of the Morse telegraph system in A few weeks before the demonstration of the first line between Washington and Baltimore in the USA, Vail used a system of opening and closing the circuit using a simple switch.

Vail described the operation of the device saying that it worked "in much the same manner as a key closes a door". He built a very simple device with two contacts that needed to be pushed together to close the circuit. It was made using "springy" brass and was mounted on a wooden base. He called the device a "Correspondent", a name that had been used for earlier sending devices.

This key was used for the first demonstration, but within six months he had developed a new type of key using a lever and a fulcrum, and this same format is used for manual keys today. The name given to the new Morse key was the "Lever Correspondent" reflecting its construction and the previous name for these keys. With the explosion in the growth of the Morse telegraph system, many keys were needed.

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The first ones were very crude, but quickly the idea of operator comfort needed to be taken into consideration as operators had long periods of operation.

New keys were produced that made operation much easier. One of the first was known as the "Camelback" - a name that resulted from the shape of the lever.

MorseKOB Interface Techniques

Unlike the lever correspondent a spring was not considered necessary because the curved shape of the lever placed the centre of gravity towards the back of the lever away from the operator.

In this way it naturally remained open or in the rest position. Whilst the first Camelbacks did not have springs, two years later the first springs were added, and later inGeorge Phelps, the chief engineer with Western Union made further improvements that made the keys much lighter and easier to use.

On the second view of the Camelback key, the sounder can be seen behind the Morse key itself. Often US telegraph operators would move from one place to another as the work arose. They would take their keys with them that included a sounder. Morse keys continued to be used in ever-increasing numbers and their development progressed. The next major step forward occurred when James Bunnell introduced his "Triumph Key" in The basic design involved a steel lever with an integral trunnion or fulcrum.

A hollow oval frame made the key very light and easy to use. These steel lever keys provided a number of advantages. Early keys suffered from the fact that the lever would come loose from the press fit trunnion. As a result of the improvements this style of key was produced in large quantities by a number of companies including Western Electric, Signal Electric and of course the Bunnell company itself.

The steel level key was not the only format that was manufactured. Particularly within Europe the keys were heavier as they were not moved from one place to another in quite the same way as they were in the US. Other Morse keys were also manufactured in various parts of the globe, especially in areas where telegraph lines were key to communications.

One such area was in Australia. A number of Morse keys were developed to fulfil special applications.Comments welcome! When a new ham decides to learn Morse Code and start operating CW, one of the first things he or she must do is choose a key. There are many different types of keys available, and choosing one can be kind of confusing.

The straight key is the most basic type of key. It has a single set of contacts, and the operator makes dits and dahs by holding down the key for different lengths of time. Because the design is so simple, this is usually the least expensive type of key you can purchase.

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Millions of operators sent their first Morse Code using a J straight key like this one. Also, my arm tires very easily when using a straight key.

Paddles are keys that you use with an electronic keyer. They have two sets of contacts, one for the dits and one for the dahs. Once a set of contacts is closed, the electronic keyer will make the dit or the dah. The nice thing about this arrangement is that the electronic keyer makes each dit and each dah the same length every time. Unlike the straight key, which you pump up and down, to operate a paddle, you rest your arm on the desk or table and simply actuate the paddle by moving your fingers or rotating your wrist.

This is a lot less stressful, and I find that I can operate for hours using a paddle. Both the single-lever paddle top and the dual-lever paddle bottom have two independent contacts: one for making dits and one for making dahs. Because only the dual-lever paddles allows you to close both sets of contacts simultaneously, only the dual-lever paddle can be used for iambic keying.

There are two main varieties of paddle: single-lever and dual-lever. The dual-lever paddle is sometimes called an iambic paddle.

Bot the single-lever and the dual-lever paddles have two sets of contacts, but in a single-lever paddle, the lever is common to both and only one set of contacts can be closed at a time. The dual-lever paddle has two completely-independent sets of contacts, and both can be closed simultaneously. When both are closed, most electronic keyers will send alternating dits and dahs. This is called the iambic mode.

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More about how this works in the next chapter. The reason for this is that the timing of the contact closures is critical when using a dual-lever paddle. If you make a contact too early or too late, or hold down a contact for too long, the code that the keyer will generate will be wrong.

For example, instead of sending a C dah-di-dah-dityou end up sending dah-di-dah-di-dah. This is one reason that the winners of high-speed CW contests tend to use single-lever paddles and not dual-lever paddles.

My recommendation is to try both and see which one you like best. Some operators will prefer the single-lever paddle for its simplicity, while others will prefer the dual-lever paddle. Instead of mechanically closing a contact, touch paddles have an integrated circuit them that senses the change in capacitance when you touch one of the paddles then electronically close a contact.Want to go back to the main page?

morse key circuit

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morse key circuit

No microprocessors were harmed in the construction of this keyer! Introduction Sometime over the past year or two, my elderly Accu-Keyer gave up the ghost and died. I built it more than 30 years ago!! It was an accurate copy of the original, right down to the printed circuit board which I made using nail polish as resist and ferric chloride etchant. In those days, the Accu-Keyer was the most popular design.

Most of those keyers used TTL chips, and the current drain worked out to be a few hundred milliamps. Running it off batteries was hardly practical, and I never tried. But there were times when it would have been useful. In fact, I was never very happy with the keyer. The power supply was my biggest gripe, and my own fault. I made it using a rewound transformer. I was a poor high school student in those days, without much money to spend on the hobby. To get the right voltage for the power supply - I needed 5VDC - I found a transformer somewhere, pulled it apart, and rewound the secondary by hand.

The problem was that the darned transformer used to hum like crazy because I was unable to clamp up the laminations adequately. I guess I could have dipped it in varnish or something, but I never got around to it.

The hum wasn't too bad when it was all enclosed inside the little box. Even so, every time I turned it on, I would hear that hum, and I'd mutter to myself about doing something about the transformer 'one of these days'. But while the keyer was working and usable, I just couldn't be bothered.

There were too many other things of more interest to build.